10 year Veganniversary / Fruitarianism, most ethical diet




It's almost May, and I didn't want to forget to mention that April marks my-so-called Veganniversary. Ten years ago this month, I had an epiphany: that all People and animals have the same needs, desires, and want their life protected. And I began to extend this ethical principle into my diet and lifestyle. I chose not to consume animals, and use, or wear any animal by-product. I stopped using shampoo, shaving cream, body wash that was tested on animals. Other things that changed in my life: I began using a Diva Cup instead of tampons and pads; bought clothes secondhand, stopped frequently shaving and showering. I translated a superficial idea of Veganism into my life for many years.
I realized that including the food I called ethical is certainly not always ethically grown. Commercial fruit and vegetable agriculture were grown using methods that harmed other beings as well. Vegan "foods" can be considered unethical when the farmers are required to spray pesticides among other things to kill the insects. Another practice of commercial agriculture is that the soils are tilled which kills frogs, snakes, worms, moles, microbes that live in the soil. The farmers and pickers are usually working under horrible conditions of hot temperatures, long hours, fast labor, all the while being underpaid when the grocery chains are getting paid outrageous profits for selling to customers cheaply.
How is the fruit and vegetables I eat considered ethical under those conditions? This led to my second epiphany three and half years ago. Literally when I was working a desk job as a secretary--I was researching how to grow food, how to build a house with earthen materials, using solar energy, and foraging. With the new knowledge, I could not go on living a normal life.
Shortly afterword, I quit my job to pursue a life of homesteading. At that time, I also quit going to college because I was studying a degree I was not interested in any longer. Also my whole college experience was like living two lives. I made sure to focus on school and research, but I made time to party, drink alcohol, smoke cigarettes, stay up late, rarely sleep, eat vegan junk food, and make unhealthy choices--which led to my quest for optimal health on the raw vegan diet.

picture of me and a cabbage head I grew

As I am writing this, I understand that there are aspects of my life that continue to be part of the environmental problem. I still buy things wrapped in plastic (which I don't always recycle or re-purpose). I am not using solar energy at the moment, because that is an investment we have yet to make. I am not living in a cob home, and I am not using a composting toilet. I am not drinking water from a spring, and I am not eating solely from the food forest. And yet I continue to make steps towards this lifestyle which I desire to pursue.
It's true I could have kept a job to pay for essential homesteading items. Instead I have chosen to live a life without money (or little money). If I had money I could buy solar panels, and buy the straw bales and other materials for the cob home. And as it goes, I have chosen to work harder without getting money involved. We have chosen to live with little money, we are temporarily building a cob home next to my family and growing food on family property. Because of this, building and growing come with challenges, delays, and setbacks.

In my experience, most people prefer to spend a lot of money for less time and less effort put into a house, food, energy, etc. People would rather buy a home than build one, or people would rather buy food than grow it. I am the opposite. Instead of buying lumber for raised beds, I'll go to the woods to scavenge logs for raised beds-- which I haul and drag myself. That's my life. I prefer to spend all my time and effort on projects rather than making money to buy the lumber.



last years Spring garden, April 2014

Of course I would love a trading system, exchanging trees, plants, seeds, and other things for ones I need. I have traded many things before without involving money. I could do many things if I had the money. In fact, in the last three and a half years of gardening, I could have bought a hundred fruit trees; but I try not to think of it that way. I try to think in terms of accomplishments instead of what we lack. I think, I can save the seed from fruits to grow and propagate in the future without buying a tree. 




Of course you can check out the collection of fruit trees in our food forest in previous posts: Blooming Fruit trees in the food forest and Fruit trees & Fruit bushes we are currently growing (Garden update July 2014).

Ok, so I really went off on a tangent from Veganism to growing food to money to transcendentalism... What I mean to say is, I have come to see how we eat, how we make money, and how we live to be interconnected. And all people's choices affect other beings. By creating a food forest for myself and my family, I can ensure that we eat in times of shortage, depression, or economic collapse. The edible landscape I create could potentially feed a new generation of people. Humans have controlled and conquered all life from deforestation, slaying of animals, producing an abundance of waste. But Humans have the potential to create a brighter, healthier, and abundant Earth (something I mentioned in my last post: Beautify the world with guerrilla gardening, graffiti art & tips on seed bombing).

typical box of groceries for me

A true ethical lifestyle is one consisting of no waste or recycles supplies, and a diet consisting of Fruit that was foraged, and/or grown in our own backyard. This is the lifestyle I am searching for. I have deep connection to the woods, hunting fruit, climbing trees, being barefoot and naked, breathing fresh air, and surrounded by plants.


When you choose to be vegan, you question every facet of your life. We begin searching for the answers which are provided by nature...

  

Beautify the world with guerrilla gardening, graffiti art & tips on seed bombing

After I began seeing the Dogwood and Red bud trees flowering weeks ago, I wanted to discuss this topic of beautifying the world. Alongside the roads and almost every backyard, there was a line of pink and white blooming trees. I thought, "How beautiful would this world be if everyone planted flowering trees and created a food forest in their yard?"
I think of the Wisteria Tunnel in Japan, and wonder why we haven't implemented something as magical and inviting as that to the landscapes around us. Plants, trees, and gardens are pieces of artwork that provoke conversation and bring people together. And, you can certainly beautify the landscape at every season. For example, in the Spring, the Dogwood and Red bud trees are blooming along with the fruit trees; and in the Fall, the Hickory tree leafs and Burning bush grace us with Fall colors of yellow and red. Added benefits of planting trees and flowers to the landscape: provide color, food for bees and animals, provide free food for families, and adding oxygen while reducing CO2.
In Spring, spot blooming trees or flowers alongside the roads. Take cuttings from trees you want to implement in your own food forest, or dig up flowers to add to your garden. Once you have collected cuttings from trees, cut any bottom branches from your cutting and shave the bottom of your butting with pruning shears. Then add rooting hormone to stimulate root growth. Finally plant the cutting in a pot with some potting mix or soil. Label your trees and plants, and as your cuttings become larger, plant outdoors in the ground, then add compost and mulch around the base of your tree.

Dingy streets, gray buildings, and dark alleys create an ominous atmosphere, consequently, growing up within these environments extends into peoples' own emotions, relationships, and livelihood.
Colors really do affect your mood, and I hypothesize this is true for those living in colorless city and urban environments. Colors of green, blue, brown, and yellow are found in the grass, sky, dirt, and sun--all of which symbolize nature. Being in nature truly creates a tranquil effect on the body. Specifically the color of green symbolizes nature, fertility, and life. Chlorophyll gives leaves their green color. The green pigment in plants is refreshing and relaxing on the eyes, and actually has been claimed to improve vision. A couple of plants growing in homes could prevent irritability.

With only the sight of plants, people naturally experience an uplifting attitude. Plants have a distractive, engrossing affect that focuses your attention.
By adding perennial flowers, vegetable gardens, fruit trees, and colorful artwork in the ghettos, neglected towns, all highways and interstates, and any city and urban environments, we can potentially create a Food Forest that is inviting, artistic, innovative, peaceful, beautiful, and ecologically sustainable for the world.
In the same ghettos or impoverished areas will benefit from guerrilla gardening. Those who need the food the most will come to the gardens to eat for free.

Ron Finley, a Los Angeles resident is leading by example using guerrilla gardening methods. Finley is the co-founder of LAGREENGROUNDS.ORG, a company that plants gardens in low-income homes in the Los Angeles area as a part of a recovery system to transform neighborhoods. In 2013, he gave a TED talk on his progress as a "guerrilla gardener". "Guerrilla" is synonymous with rebellion. Guerrilla gardening refers to the act of gardening on land that people do not have legal rights to utilize. Below is a picture of Ron Finley at work to beautify what looks like an abandoned pool or skate park.

This idea of cleaning up neighborhoods and abandoned locations that become crime zones, could be transformed into a beautiful and inviting garden. Cleaning waste dumps can be transformed into parks, which would clean the environment. I have brought up this topic before: Ways to Clean Trash/waste landfills.

Freedom Hall

You'd be surprised what can grow in cracks and crevices in pavement as well. Small vegetables like lettuce, kale, spinach, and arugula will grow in the smallest nooks, as long as there is soil, water, and sunlight provided. Most people don't realize you can grow overtop of concrete.  Using raised beds will allow you to grow over top concrete. Raised beds are the best method for growing over top unusable surfaces, or create a layering system like sheet mulching, lasagna gardening, Hugelkultur, or straw bale gardens. Layers of grass clippings, leaves, straw, compost, and other wood debris are the best materials to layer within your raised bed.

You do not need to implement raised beds in a guerrilla garden. In fact you can make 100 or more seed bombs that will take out the hard work of making raised beds. Seed bombs are essential balls of soil with seeds inside. The intention of seed bombs is to throw out and scatter in abandoned lots, ditches, or any unused location. Guerrilla gardening emphasizes growing food anywhere and everywhere, so this is where throwing out seed bombs is much easier for growing food--especially when the intent is to not get caught growing food on private property.
Masanobu Fukuoka has been credited to the invention of seed bombs. They are easy to make but if there is insufficient amounts of rain, this will prevent or slow germination.


pinterest

To make seed bombs, mix clay soil with compost (or garden soil) and roll into a ball. Make an impression in the middle of the seed bomb to and add two to three seeds inside.

The great aspect about vegetable seeds is that they can grow in poor soil and tiny nooks in pavement. I have seen a tomato growing in a window sill and in the crevice of a doorway. The vegetables that grow best in small spaces are lettuce, spinach, and kale. In locations that receive excess moisture (like in ditches), throw out melon and squash seed bombs. In locations that receive lots of sunlight, throw out Tomato and Pepper seed bombs; and Brussels in shady locations. If the soil looks poor, grow Tomatoes, beans, and greens.


The sight of gardens and flowers is an artistic creation. But I also find that graffiti art beautifies the ugly atmosphere of urban and city life. Graffiti art is synonymous with rebellion and activism, and I think this topic works perfectly alongside guerrilla gardening.
Photos I posted below are great examples of graffiti art that can create an uplifting attitude in the most dismal looking environments.




pinterest

Modern architecture for some reason is still primarily grey. I personally do not live in the city, but if I looked at gray buildings everywhere I turned--I would want to escape to a forest. In places without many trees or forests, murals like this invoke a sense of freedom that a forest provides. These murals invoke thought, curiosity, creativity, and passion.


photo from Fresh Paint

 Displaying plants and gardening represents life, and abundance, and these images of plants will stir emotions of happiness even when there are no plants growing.



People and animals naturally gravitate to plants, color, and light. And each of these things effect us all psychologically. We are effected to the point that we amass a light and life in ourselves that encourages us to create a positive force for change. With these elements we could potentially live in peace with one another.

March-April Garden update (Greens, herbs, & Root vegetables)

If you have been following the garden updates, you may know I began planting in mid-March. We transplanted Cauliflower, Brussels, Broccoli, Garlic, Shallots, Onions, and Cabbage to the garden about a month ago. At the end of March, we planted Spinach, Lettuce, Collards, Radish, Kohlrabi, Turnip, Kale, and Arugula from seed. The Radicchio was transplanted a week and or so ago. Now that it is mid-April, the vegetables planted by seed have established their second set of leaves and have grown almost 2 inches tall and wide.

 As mentioned in a previous post, we have been growing and transplanting fruit trees, fruit bushes, and vegetables by the Farmer's Almanac. I posted pictures of the fruit tree additions here: Blooming fruit trees in the food forest. On days that are 'favorable for planting root crops, greens, and flowers', we transplanted the Nectarine trees, plum tree, paw paw trees, blueberry and raspberry bushes. Of course on those days we would directly sow root vegetables and greens.


There has been a rain shower daily for the last week and a half in Kentucky, which has been perfect growing conditions for greens and root vegetables. As you can see from the photo above, water is retaining in between the Hugelkultur mounds. Many root vegetables will rot in wet soil, so be sure to provide plenty of drainage. I highly advocate tall Hugelkultur mounds which allow for good drainage during rainy season in the Spring months, while retaining water in the wood-- which releases during times of drought in the Summer months.

James and I wanted to experiment throwing out seeds in the compost bed. We were excited to find that nearly all the tomato seeds we scattered came up. During their germination period we kept a sheet of transparent plastic over top of the raised bed and weighed it down with rocks. Tomato plants particularly germinate well in warmer soil.

compost raised bed growing tomato starters

All the plants continue to grow quickly. Here are some of the photos I have taken in the last couple of days of the Spring garden:

pineapple sage growing in herb & flower bed

French Lavender growing in herb & flower bed

Peas growing around trellis circle

The last couple of days have been favorable for planting above-ground and vining crops, I transplanted the Pumpkins and directly sowed Pumpkin seed within the first Hugelkultur mound I made (in front of the house). Where I am growing Pumpkins, the powdery brown mix you see in the picture below is wood ashes on top of the Hugelkultur mound.

Also on the days favoring vine crops, I directly sowed (from seed) Acorn squash and Butternut Squash, and transplanted Tomatoes. James added a trellis to the set of tomato plants on top of the Hugelkultur mounds.

Yesterday I noticed the seeds sprouting in the flat area of the garden. We're not exactly sure what's sprouting, but radish, turnip, beet seeds were planted in the flat. In the photo below you'll notice a the flat area in between the Spring garden (four mounds in the background) and Summer garden (three mounds in the foreground of the picture).

Yesterday on the 15th, we transplanted two Red bell pepper plants and basil plant, because it was a favorable day for planting above-ground crops. I was a little apprehensive buying and transplanting tomatoes and peppers so early in the season. But to take precaution in the event of a late frost, I am watching the weather forecast daily.

Today and Friday (Thursday&Friday, 16-17th) will be "poor planting days" according to the Farmer's Almanac, so I will not be transplanting anything, but may directly sow Swiss chard.

I'll be finished planting greens and vegetables and fruit trees on this property soon, and in about a month, James and I will be planting potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, corn, and other things at my grandparents' property. 

Interpreting the weeds in your garden

"Your Weeds are Telling You Something! Learn to Interpret Them Here."  by gardensall   

"I was always a bit curious about why certain weeds would grow in one area and not another. Then I found out you can learn quite a bit from listening to your weeds!
Look to the Weeds
by Dianna Barker

"Gardeners and farmers constantly battle with the weeds, but weeds can have a useful purpose.  Weeds can be used as a soil indicator.  Simply by observing the most prevalent weeds that are growing in a specific area, they can indicate if the soil is acidic or alkaline, whether the soil is a healthy, balanced soil, or if it’s depleted.  Weeds can indicate a poorly draining soil, or a soil that is unable to retain moisture.  Weeds can even indicate if the soil is unbalanced, being overly rich in one nutrient and deficient in others.
When using weeds as a soil indicator, observe several of the most prevalent types of weeds to get an accurate soil assessment.  For example, the dandelion and common mullein both indicate an acidic soil, but common mullein can also mean a low fertility soil, so if you see it alone, it could mean several things, but seeing it along with dandelions would indicate an acidic soil.
Pay attention also to the health of the weeds, a healthy stand of clover could indicate a soil that lacks nitrogen, while the same weed will grow in soil that had sufficient nitrogen, but will appear much less vigorous.  It should be noted that  some weeds like purple nettle (Lamium purpureum) and Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursapastoris) will grow on most soil types and so are not reliable indicators.  Cornflowers (Centaurea cyanus), and Hydrangeas are excellent indicators for a soil’s pH, the flowers will be pink in an acidic soil and blue in an alkaline soil.
An acidic soil is a soil with a pH below 7.0.  Look for these weeds as an indicator of an acidic soil: eastern Bracken (Pteridium aquifolium), Buggenum buttercup (Ranunculus spp.), Chamomile-German (Chamomilla pecutita), Curly Dock (Rumex crispus),  English Daisy (Bellis perennis), Ox-Eye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Hawkweeds (Hieracium aurantiacum and pratense), Knapweeds  (Centaurea species),  Lady’s-Thumb (Polygonum persicaria), Mayweed (Arthemis cotula), Mosses (Musci class), common Mullein (Verbascum thapsis),  Nettles (Urtica dioica), Wild Pansy (Viola sp.), Pineapple Weed (Matricria matricariodes), Pinks (Dianthus sp.), Plantain (Plantago major),  Prostrate Knotweed  (Poly-aviculare), Wild Radish (Bapranus raphanistrum), Rough Cinquefoil (Potentilla monspeliensis),  Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), Silvery Cinquefoil (Potentilla argentea), Sow Thistle (Sonchus species), Corn Spurry (Spergula arvensis), and Wild Strawberries (Fragaria  species).  Plants that grow well in an acidic soil are azaleas, blueberries, endive, hydrangeas, rhododendrons,  rhubarb, potatoes, shallots, sweet potatoes, and watermelons.  Adding lime or using woodstove or fireplace ashes can raise the soil’s pH to the desirable pH range.
Alkaline soil has a pH higher than 7.0.  Weeds that indicate an alkaline soil are: Bellflower (Campanula sp.), Bladder Campion  (Silene iatifolia),  Wild Carrot (Daucus carota), Field Peppergrass (Lepidium virginicum), Goosefoot (Chenopodium species),  Gromwell (Lithospermum officinale), black Henbane (Hyoscyamus niger), white Mustard (Brassica hirta), Pennycress (Thlaspi arvense), Salad Burnett (Poterium sanguisorba), Scarlet Pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis), Stinkweed (Thlaspi arvense), Nodding Thistle (Carduus nutans), and True Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis).  Asparagus, broccoli, beets, lettuce, muskmelons, onions, and spinach do well in alkaline soil.  Sulfur can be added to a overly alkaline soil to lower it’s pH.
A healthy, fertile soil will have a pH of 6.2 to 7.0.  Weeds indicating a fertile soil are: Burdock  (Arctium minus), Butter Print (Abutilon theophrasti), Chickweed (stellaria media), Chicory (Cichorium intybus), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Fat Hen ( Atriplex hastata), Groundsel ( Senecio vulgaris),  Lamb’s-Quarters (Chenopodium album), Pigweeds (family Amaranth), Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana),  Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), Queen  Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), and Velvetleaf (Abutilon thoephrasti).  Broccoli, corn, lettuce, melons, peppers, squash, and tomatoes are all heavy feeders and will thrive in a fertile soil.
A poor or depleted soil will have weeds such as: Broom sedge (Adropogon virginicus), Dog fennel (Eupatorium capillifolium), Wild Radish (Bapranus raphanistrum), Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), Wild Parsnip (Sium suave), Biennial Wormwood (Artemisia bennis) and Yellow toadflax (Lindaia vulgaris).  Beans, beets, carrots, legumes, parsnips, peas, radishes, sage, and thyme will tolerate poor soil conditions and perform well in depleted soil.
A heavy or Clay soil will have Bradleaf Dock (Rumex obtusifolius), Wild Carrot (Daucus carota), Chicory (Cichorium intybus), Creeping Buttercup ( Ranunculus repens), English Daisy  (Bellis perennis), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Mayweed (Arthemis cotula), Milkweed (Asclepius syriaca), Plantain (Plantago major), Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense), and Wild Garlic (Allium vineale).
Weeds that indicate a wet, poorly draining soil are:  Hedge Bindweed (Convolvulus Sepium), Bull sedge (Carex lasiocarpa), Canada goldenrod (Solidago graminifolia) Cattail (Typha latifolia), Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara), Creeping buttercup (Ranunculus repens), Curly dock (Rumex crispus), Ox-Eye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), Docks (Rumex sp.), Foxtail (Hordeum jubatum), Goldenrods (Solidago sp.), Groundnut (Apios americana), Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum), Horsetail (Equisetum arvense), Jewelweed (Impatiens pallida), Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium purpereum), Lady’s thumb (Polygonum persicaria), Marsh Mallow (Althaea Officinalis), May apple (Podophyllum peltatum), Meadow pink (Lychnis floscuculi), Meadow Sweet (Astilbe sp), Mosses (all species), Stinging Nettles (Urtica urens), Pennsylvania smartweed (Polygonum pensylvanicum), Ragwort, Tansy (Senecio jacobaea), Sheep sorrel (Rumex acetosella), Silvery cinquefoil (Potentilla argentea), Sweet flag (Acorus calamus), Tall buttercup (Ranuculus acris), Thyme-leafed speedwell (Veronica serpyllifolia), Black Willow (Salix sp.)  If you see Dock, Horsetail, Foxtails, Willows, Ox-eye Daisy, Goldenrod, Poison Hemlock, Rushes, Sedges and Joe-pye you can expect soil in that area to  experience soggy or swampy conditions at some time of the year.  Wet spots are obvious during  the rainy season but could appear fairly dry at other times. These weeds are excellent indicators that the area will be soggy at some time during the year.
Weeds that grow in sandy soils are: Arrow-leafed Wild Lettuce (Lactuca pulchella), Field Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), White Cockle (Lychnis alba), Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), Dog Fennel (Eupatorium capillidolium), Goldenrods (Solidago sp.), Maltese Thistle (Centaurea melitensis), Sandbur (Cenchrus species), Small Nettle (Urtica urens), and Yellow Toadflax (Linania vulgaris).
Weeds that indicate a hardpan soil are: Field Mustard (Brassica nigra), Horse Nettle (Solanum carolinense), Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea), Pennycress (Thlaspi arvense), Pineapple Weed (Matricria matricariodes), and Quack Grass (Agropyron repens).  Bok choi, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and mustards grow well in this type of soil.
Previously cultivated soil will have theses weeds predominately: Carpet Weed (Mullugo verticillata), Chickweed (Stellaria media), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinate), Lamb’s Quarter (Chenopodium album), Plantain (Plantago major), Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia), and Rough Pigweed (Aramanth family).
Individual weeds that indicate a soil’s nutrient values are useful in determining if the soil is unbalanced.  Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua) indicates very low calcium, low humus, low bacterial count, and high magnesium levels.  Burdock grows in soils very high in iron and sulfate, and very low levels of calcium and manganese.  Buckhorn Plantain indicate very low levels of calcium, low humus levels, and very high in chlorine, magnesium, potassium, and sodium.  Common Chickweed and Mouse Ear Chickweed indicate very low calcium and phosphorus levels, and very high potassium and sodium levels.  Crabgrass indicates very low levels of calcium and phosphorus, low pH, low humus, very high chlorine levels, and high levels of magnesium and potassium.
Weeds that grow in sandy soils are: Arrow-leafed Wild Lettuce (Lactuca pulchella), Field Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), White Cockle (Lychnis alba), Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), Dog Fennel (Eupatorium capillidolium), Goldenrods (Solidago sp.), Maltese Thistle (Centaurea melitensis), Sandbur (Cenchrus species), Small Nettle (Urtica urens), and Yellow Toadflax (Linania vulgaris).
Weeds that indicate a hardpan soil are: Field Mustard (Brassica nigra), Horse Nettle (Solanum carolinense), Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea), Pennycress (Thlaspi arvense), Pineapple Weed (Matricria matricariodes), and Quack Grass (Agropyron repens).  Bok choi, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and mustards grow well in this type of soil.
Previously cultivated soil will have theses weeds predominately: Carpet Weed (Mullugo verticillata), Chickweed (Stellaria media), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinate), Lamb’s Quarter (Chenopodium album), Plantain (Plantago major), Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia), and Rough Pigweed (Aramanth family).
Individual weeds that indicate a soil’s nutrient values are useful in determining if the soil is unbalanced.  Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua) indicates very low calcium, low humus, low bacterial count, and high magnesium levels.  Burdock grows in soils very high in iron and sulfate, and very low levels of calcium and manganese.  Buckhorn Plantain indicate very low levels of calcium, low humus levels, and very high in chlorine, magnesium, potassium, and sodium.  Common Chickweed and Mouse Ear Chickweed indicate very low calcium and phosphorus levels, and very high potassium and sodium levels.  Crabgrass indicates very low levels of calcium and phosphorus, low pH, low humus, very high chlorine levels, and high levels of magnesium and potassium.
Dallisgrass indicates low calcium, very high magnesium, and high potassium levels.  Dandelions indicate very low levels of calcium, and very high levels of chlorine and potassium.  Hop Clover and Oxalis indicate very low levels of calcium and high levels of magnesium.  Prostrate Spurge indicates low calcium levels and very high levels of chlorine, magnesium, potassium, and sodium.  Purslane and Mustard indicate an abundance of phosphorus.  Red Clover indicates an excess of potassium.  Redroot Pigweed indicates an abundance of nitrogen.  White Clover indicates very high levels in chlorine, magnesium, and sodium.  Wild Garlic indicates very low calcium and bacterial count, and very high levels of chlorine, magnesium, potassium, and sodium.  Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) indicates low potassium" (GARDENSALL, 2014).

Blooming Fruit trees in the food forest

Not quite all of the fruit trees have bloomed. The Fig trees have yet to put off leaves at all. I took extra precaution overwintering the Fig trees (see here), so I suspect they have not put off leaves yet because it's not the right time. From what I have observed, the trees themselves have not died yet the tips of branches died because they ended up exposed to the elements. I have learned that I need to completely cover or drape a tarp over top of the trees during winter.

The Peach trees have not put off blossoms, but they are slowly putting off leaves. One of the Nectarine trees had four blooms on when we bought it, but we picked them off for several reasons.

I mentioned awhile back that two Cherry trees died, but one of the Cherry trees put off a side shoot. Fortunately, the side shoot is putting off leaves. The side shoot will become the main tree after pruning the dead.

Cherry tree

The first picture below is a Plum tree we added last week. I have been gardening by the Farmer's Almanac (moon phases) as well. So the Fruit trees and fruit bushes were transplanted last week when it was favorable days for planting root crops. See the monthly schedule of what to grow according to the moon phases:

Plum

 I am excited to see one of the Pear trees blooming. I have had the two Pear trees for three years now, and this is the first year they have put off flowers. I wonder if the other Pear tree will follow suit.

Pear tree blooming

Pear tree blooms (Kieffer variety)

Pear trees

One of the Plum trees have bloomed as well.

On a final note, it has rained for most of last week and this week, so there has been no need in watering the garden. In fact the garden is holding a lot of water within the trenches. Because there is logs and pieces of wood within the Hugelkultur mounds, I expect the wood to absorb all of the rain like a sponge. During times of drought, the water within the logs will release back into the soil and plants.
Last week we added 9 Radicchio plants on the large Hugel mound. Also, we directly sowed Arugula, Endive, and Radish in open spots amongst the other plants. Within a couple of days of humid and wet weather, the Arugula have already popped up.
Yesterday because it was another favorable day for growing root crops, James scattered seeds of Radish, Beets, and Turnips in the flat bed (between the Spring garden and Summer garden).

I suspect more growth in the following week, so stay tuned for garden updates.